An oft-forgotten island in Japan - Shikoku

Follow the footprint of Sakamoto Ryoma, Toratake and Shimanto River in Kochi

Located on the island of Shikoku in Japan, Kochi Prefecture is not a popular tourist spot for many people, you will need to take a domestic flight from Tokyo to there. In Kochi there are still many places to visit that have a connection to Ryoma’s childhood. Discover what made this samurai so special and learn about his achievements, that helped bring Japan out of the feudal age and transform into the world power it is today. Running from the high mountains down to the sea, the Shimanto River’s clear waters not only welcome visitors looking to experience unspoiled nature, but also are an essential part of preserving Shimanto area traditions and food culture. The city has an estimated population of 500,000 and also known for several traditional craft items produced.

Ryoma Sakamoto was born in the Tosa Domain (modern-day Kochi Prefecture). Descendant of a low-ranking samurai family, Sakamoto early established a reputation for swordsmanship. The contacts he made through his sword-fighting served him in good stead when, influenced by imperial ideology, he began to plot against the Tokugawa shogunate for restoration of power to the emperor. Ryōma was assassinated at the Ōmiya Inn (Omiya) in Kyoto on 10 December 1867, not long before the Meiji Restoration took place, at the age of 31. There are an extensive collection of Ryoma’s letters left behind, written while drafting his plan to overthrow the government which demonstrate played an instrumental role in ending the 250-year-long feudal age. In the Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum, you can learn about his life and see his authentic works, to feel his charismatic personality and ability to bring people together despite the turmoil. His bronze statue of Sakamoto Ryoma stands in Katsurahama Park and will continue to inspire the young generation in Japan.

Photo: Bronze statue of Sakamoto Ryoma (Source: https://www.guidoor.jp/en/places/5990)

Photo: The Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum (Source: https://ryoma-kinenkan.jp/document/)

One of the highlights of this trip is to visit a famous Japanese bamboo craftsman. Its products are made from the locally unique form of "Tiger Bamboo", which was named by Dr. Makino Tomitaro - an internationally renowned botanist who gave the name to this type of bamboo. "Tiger Bamboo" name derives from the tiger-striped brindle pattern on its surface. The Toratake workshop is the only place for "Tiger Bamboo" production which attracts many local and foreign botanists to study here. Different from typical bamboo forests, tiger bamboo forests have high light transmittance and the nature sound of wind blowing similar to the ocean breezes. The presents of Tiger bamboo products began in the Edo period and have a history of 122 years. The current craftsman is the fourth generation. He said that it is difficult to pass it on to the next generation. For larger bamboo products, each part is handled by different craftsmen. Bamboo can be used in far more scenarios than we know. Bamboo leaves can be used to make tea, bamboo charcoal can be food additives, and there are many styles of household items that can be made of bamboo in an art state. From November to January every year is the bamboo harvest season. It is my pleasure that the craftsman takes me around during the busy days.

Photo: Toratake store (Source: https://kurasusaki.com/pocket_susaki/work/工業/工場/2261/)

Photo: Toratake store (Source: https://j-net21.smrj.go.jp/special/news/ffsr280000006d1s.html)

Visit the city of Shimanto in the southwest of Kochi, its most famous "Shimanto River" is not only the longest river in the area but also known as "the last clear stream of Japan". It takes about two hours from Kochi Station to Nakamura Station on the Shimanto River. On the way, we passed through heavy snow, and after going through the tunnel, it becomes sunny again just like I have entered a wormhole. Since there are only a few trains a day, so my friends and I would like to stick to the outdoors. Although there was no heavy snow after we arrived, we were freezing and didn’t want to stretch out our hands to take pictures of this beautiful place. Our interest has been blown away by the strong breeze. Most of the local shops were closed and we can feel a dead silence floating in the air (although the river was still beautiful). There are also different plants blooming in the Shimanto River in spring, summer and autumn. The photos are beautiful, but it is not a good idea to go in winter. I just hope that I can camp by the river next time when I visit.

Photo: Shimanto (Source: https://visitkochijapan.com/zh_CN/highlights/shimantoriver)

Katsuo no tataki is the most famous dish in Kochi, the bonito is seasoned with salt or soya sauce with vinegar and citrus to keep the fish fresh and tender but add a layer of flavour. The outer layer has broiled over a straw fire until just the outer layer is grilled a little bit, but the inside is just like sashimi. I promise you can never have this from other places in Japan, and you will never get tired of eating it every day. Kochi is also famous as a habitat for whales. It is served in various different ways such as sashimi, seared or tatsuta-fried. Apart from the whale hunting problem, the whale meat was crispy and oily, I tried half a slice and couldn't stand it. In addition, Kochi's eel rice is a big surprise. Unlike Tokyo's practice, it is directly grilled and served. The skin and sides of the fish are extremely crispy which I highly recommend it!