The Insiders' Guide to Living in Chiang Mai

The web is awash with content telling people how to live in Thailand for under $800 or even $600 a month. Most of those 'experts' on the country were once so-called digital nomads who have run out of money and are now back home dreaming of a return to the country that left them spellbound. It is possible to live in Thailand on the aforementioned amounts - after all, the average wage in the capital is close to $600, but the life you will be living won't quite be the rollercoaster ride in the exotic Far East you were expecting. If you earn the average wage of a local, expect day-to-day drudgery similar to that of life back home.
What You Really Need
If you want to travel around the country, live in a half-decent apartment or house, have fast internet, transport, and cash for splurging in western restaurants now and again, you'll need at least $2,000 dollars a month if you're living in Bangkok. If you choose to live on one of the islands, such as Phuket, you can get by on $1,500. Up north in Chiang Mai, or somewhere in the Eastern province of Issan, you could live a fairly comfortable lifestyle for $1,000.

Where to Live in Chiang Mai
Most of the mainly young, mainly male, mainly American digital nomads who flocked to Chiang Mai over the last few years chose - if they could afford it - to live somewhere close to the happening street called Nimmanheamin Road. This is the main road intersected by a series of lanes (soi) on each side. The rent for a small one-room apartment there will cost you at least $320 (10,000 baht) a month. A less modern apartment on the outskirts of town will set you back half that price.

There are areas of Chiang Mai that most people will never hear about while they are there, which resident expats call home and where you can find arguably the most beautiful views in the city. Two such areas are close to each other and are only 30 to 40 minutes from Nimmanhaemin Road. One is the sub-district of "Nam Phrae" and another is "Mae Hia." If you want to experience the laid-back lifestyle that Chiang Mai was once famous for, then you can't do better than looking for a place in one of those two places. There are few apartment buildings, but it is quite easy to find relatively cheap houses on the plethora of Chiang Mai real estate agencies on Facebook. All agents speak some English.

If you really want to get out to the boondocks you can find three-bedroom houses with amazing views in the Sankampaeng and Doi Saket districts of Chiang Mai. Monthly rent will cost you $300 to $400.
What Should You Do?
A lot of people go to Chiang Mai to walk in the mountains. Trekking has been the bread and butter of tourist agencies for decades, but if you're content with day hikes, Facebook is your friend. Join one of the expat groups and ask who's hiking, or join one of the dedicated hiking groups. There are plenty of them, and they're usually led by experienced hikers who've lived in the city for years. It's a great way to meet people and see some of the best sights Chiang Mai has to offer.
Alternatively, join one of the language exchange groups and you'll quickly be introduced to local expats from all over the world. It's not uncommon for people to meet and eventually form relationships after attending one of the meet-ups. If you have business in mind, join one of the digital nomad groups.
If you want to exercise among the greenery of Chiang Mai, head to a lake that in Thai is called "Huay Tung Tao." You'll need transport to get there since it's about 30 minutes from the city. Alternatively, about 30 minutes in the other direction is Chiang Mai University's Faculty of Agriculture. This is a popular spot for Thais who want to take an early evening stroll.

How Much Do Things Cost?
Great street food is everywhere in Chiang Mai. It's about as pervasive as streetlamps and usually costs 40 to 50 baht a dish, $1.30 to $1.60. A meal in a western restaurant could cost anything depending on how luxurious it is, but a standard two-course meal in the average Italian restaurant will cost about $15.

Alcohol is another thing. Wine in Thailand is exceptionally expensive, with a bottle of very low-quality plonk costing about $12 if you purchase it in that well-known wine purveyor, 7-ELEVEN. A small beer costs around $1.40, but if you want to buy craft beers, you are looking at paying at least $5 a bottle. In some of the more fashionable bars on Nimmanhaemin, an imported beer could set you back $12.

Places You Should Definitely Grab A Meal At
Why Not restaurant (Italian)
Food for Thought (International)
Dash (Thai)
Rustic and Blue (an eclectic mix of unique dishes)
Tong Tem Toh (Great northern Thai food)
Hundreds of places could be added to this small list. Chiang Mai is a foodies' heaven, so it's best to look online and make your way from there. If you want a slice of Thai life that foreigners rarely see, head up to Chiang Mai university and eat at the many stalls around there. The university in the daytime is also a great place to walk around if you head in the direction of the reservoir (Ang Kaew).

Best Weekend Trips
Pai, which lies in what may be one of the most wonderful valleys in Thailand, is about three hours away. Be prepared to see a lot of young travellers, as well as expats who have too much time on their hands. If you want peace and quiet, don't stay near the town. There are plenty of options for hotels and resorts just out of town.
Chang Dao, about two hours away, is a much quieter choice. The views of "Doi Luang Chiang Dao" (Chang Dao Mountain) are spectacular and there are plenty of reasonably-priced resorts at the foot of the mountain.

If you want to experience perhaps the most unique part of northern Thailand, head to a village called, "Toed Thai." This is where many languages and cultures meet since it's on the border with Myanmar and its occupant are of varying ethnicities. It's one of the only places in Thailand where you'll find locals speaking Chinese, among other languages.

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